Suspended Holds

Stumbled across this today from http://climb-va.com/.  In it they showcase a recent problem at a competition which uses the suspended ball hold and momentum to gain access to the next hold.

Vertical Endeavors in Warrenville, IL recently also used this hold in a different way at No Holds Barred 2012 on a  Men’s Open Final route.  Here is Greg Padovani (awesome dude) crushing it.  Photo credit to Chris Godskesen.

So it looks like these new suspended holds are becoming all the rage.  My question to the audience is this:  Gimmick?  Or awesome new setting technique.  I think most of the setters I have spoken to at our gym say this is lame.  We used to have something like it and now it is all but banned from our gym.  Thoughts?

Cool Ads Bro.

Whoa, I was just stumbling across the internet when I found…

Looks like climbing is continuing to become more and more mainstream.  It will be interesting to watch its growth in the industry in the coming years.  Of course popularity has its challenges, which I may address in the near future…

Eye Climb So Ill

So by the looks of it Climb So Ill, the monster gym brainchild of So Ill Climbing Holds is set for a Grand Opening of March 23rd in St. Louis.

Today they posted this which has been set by Movement and So Ill setters.

Those of you that have been around a few years may recognize that feature from the 2009 Mammut Bouldering Championships.
I think we all remember that sick one arm Daniel Woods did off the eye.   Oh… you don’t remember it?  4:45 in…

So do I want to climb on that eye?  YES.  Do you want to climb on that eye?  YES.

Plus correct me if i’m wrong but I see a slew of newer holds – So Ill, Climb It, Nicros, Teknik, ect.  Road trip?

Stay up to date at : http://climbsoill.com/

Movement Analysis

So one of my biggest frustrations is that there is a definite lack of material/resources available to amateur setters.  I know we have routesetter.comspotsettingblog.wordpress.com and routecrafting.blogspot.com but I am not aware of other sources.  I have not taken any USAC setters courses yet, though we are soon having a clinic from a Level 4 USAC setter.  Stoked.  I don’t have official knowledge of setting, rather just 5 years of setting experience at 2 different gyms behind me and feedback from other setters/customers/friends/ect.

Anyways this is superbly amateur but here is an analysis of one of my own recent problems, I think as setters we can learn a lot by analyzing our own/each others movement.  I will try to get actual images/video as it is available so people can see these ideas in action.

Here goes:

Read the rest of this entry »

Adult ABS Nationals 2012

WHOA!  Have you seen the Men’s Adult ABS Nationals Highlight Reel from Louder Than 11?  If not, click the above photo and be prepared to be blown away!

I always get super excited to watch what innovative movement the setters came up with for any indoor comp really, but especially the national competitions.  So when Daniel Woods started climbing up the arete instead of doing the forced movement on the holds I have to wonder what was running through the setters minds.  I know personally as a setter it can be extremely frustrating when you have spent hours on an intended movement, then someone comes up and finds a v2-3 path through your intended v5 or v6.  I guess that’s a risk you take when you have this grade of world class climber competing.  Daniel Woods crushed the comp, which is great to see again, this guy is a monster.

If I get psyched enough, maybe I will try and write up a movement analysis of these problems.  Peace!

*Above photo Courtesy of Caroline Treadway and the Unified Bouldering Facebook Page.

 

Welcome!

Whoa...

You probably already know this:  Our climbing world is changing and changing fast.  Not just in terms of progression but also the specific ethics and methods in which one can integrate to the climbing community.  I’m starting up this blog as a way to showcase some pretty cool things going on in the climbing world.  I am a graduate student who has been climbing/setting about 5 years now primarily indoors due to my location/life status, so this is my way of living vicariously through others.  Also through this process I have become incredibly passionate about the world of gym climbing which is progressing to something amazing in it’s own right.  I hope to be able to give something back to this community that has been so supportive and has become one of my greatest passions…  So with that said, let’s do it!

Above we have an image from John Steel Photography of the “Roktagon Penthouse Suite” at Rokt Climbing Gym (more on this later):

http://www.facebook.com/roktclimbinggym

Rokt Climbing Gym, Sugden’s Old Flour Mill, Millroyd Street, HD6 1EY Brighouse, United Kingdom