Stumbled across this today from http://climb-va.com/. In it they showcase a recent problem at a competition which uses the suspended ball hold and momentum to gain access to the next hold.
Vertical Endeavors in Warrenville, IL recently also used this hold in a different way at No Holds Barred 2012 on a Men’s Open Final route. Here is Greg Padovani (awesome dude) crushing it. Photo credit to Chris Godskesen.
So it looks like these new suspended holds are becoming all the rage. My question to the audience is this: Gimmick? Or awesome new setting technique. I think most of the setters I have spoken to at our gym say this is lame. We used to have something like it and now it is all but banned from our gym. Thoughts?
#1 by James Nater on March 23rd, 2012
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I’ve got mixed feelings about it. I mean, I understand why it’s lame… but at the same time it looks like loads of fun! Seeing it in a rock gym though, just feels wrong.
But you know what they say, “fat chicks are like mopeds…”
#2 by NDTitanLady on March 23rd, 2012
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I think its appropriate for a gym setting, where you always see crazy gymnastic moves… but theres no way in hell you will see that outdoors EVER.
They had this setting for our Halloween ABS regionals comp down here couple years back in 2010. In the comp setting I actually enjoyed climbing it, its really different. But i felt like the move was all about momentum and timing, which is in climbing… but a completely different sytle of momentum & climbing.
For new climbers, i think its really dangerous. For our setting you had to dyno to the first softball… and ive seen countless newcomers attempting to try it because “it looks cool” and every time they whiplash. Its really putting yourself into a situation where you can tear your arm out of its socket or slam into the wall… or slam your face into the floor.
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/75051_10150296887620554_722490553_15424248_1546367_n.jpg
heres a video so you can see the climb in action i guess haha, hopefully the link works.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=748897152004&set=t.722490553&type=3&theater
#3 by stuckindoors on March 26th, 2012
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Ohhh, you climb at Threshold?! I love that gym. My folks live out in San Diego, so I make regular pilgrimages to TH and Hangar 18. Sick photos/video!
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#11 by Your name (required) on June 25th, 2012
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This is a fantastic view of the situation, I don’t think I’ve quite seen it from that perspective before.